After a quick “cafe forte” from the breakfast nook of the gîte, I packed up and hit the trail by 8am.
The first stretch was a pleasant road walk through grass, forest, and farmland, which ended at a trailhead, with the trail pointed up a wooded limestone valley.
After about 1,300m of ascent, I reached col d’Pau. That’s where today got really good! The next 10km of trail was all level, easy ridge walking, with views into both Spain and France’s Pyrenees National Parks, which I entered on the way up.
I have begun to pass more hikers every day, which is a good sign that we’re starting to approach the most coveted regions of the Pyrenees.
The ridge walk ended at the beautiful Refuge d’Arlet, where I walked in and asked to “bivouac” (basically tent for the night) nearby. Bivouacing is free here, as you aren’t using any of their services. The owner pointed out a prime spot about 100m from the ‘fuge, with awesome views all around. It’s nice to be close by to other people in case of another hell storm, but I also prefer sleeping outside and away from the crowded bunk rooms full of snoring bears and smelly boots, especially on such a nice day.
But then, since I said I wanted to be near people, the universe sent a group of 20 Spanish students with four huge tents to set up right next where I was camped at like 8pm! I was like, come on! I didn’t hike 250km to camp right next to a bunch of loud people, I did it to experience the solitude and tranquility of the mountains. Ugh. Lesson learned. Bivouac further away from refuges.
I’ve also felt, since I got here at 2pm, that I should be hiking on. I had 8 hours to do not much other than write a bit and lay out in the sun under my shade umbrella, before going to bed around 10. Reckon that is the nomadic mindset I’m in now. I simply get bored with the place I’m in after a few hours of it. Something new to keep in mind. Maybe I should bring a book next time.
Anyways, I put in some earplugs to drown out the nonstop Spanish yelling and passed out promptly. Goodnight!
Really enjoy reading your about your trek. We are doing sections 2-3 maybe 4 if we hike further each day, this summer. We have no plans on taking picks or crampons.
Can you share your gear list?
Any changes you’d make to it?